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Caring for your Tillandsia aka Tillys, Air Plant or Airplant

Tillandsias grow differently than most other house plants, so they can be confusing to the beginner. They are really very hardy, and require much less attention than other house plants. The following simplifies the instruction but you can scroll down for much more specific information.

Protect them from frosts

Most prefer cooler night temperatures - 10-15 degrees less that daytime is ideal

Give them bright, filtered light.

Provided If the atmosphere is not too dry (as in an air-conditioned home) they can survive with water misting and the occasional bath.

If you are growing them indoors and the air is dry, you will need (at minimum) to submerge the plant in water for 2-3 hours about every two weeks. Otherwise, in a shade-house or unheated home, you can use a soaking mist once or twice a week in summer, once a month in cooler weather.

Fertilize by adding a pinch of Orchid fertilizer to your mister.

GLASS GLOBES WITH TILLANDSIA...

have become so popular that I get calls all the time about caring for them. Follow these simple instruction to enjoy your glass surrounded plant for many years.
  1. The larger the globe the more care you can give your plant.

  2. Water your plant when you first receive it by soaking 20-30 mins. Take note of the size and color and you should see how happy the plant is. Keep this "picture" in your mind.

  3. Allow your plant to dry almost completely before placing in the globe.

  4. Mist your plant every 4-5 days with ONE Spray for tiny globes, 2-3 sprays for globes 3-5 inches, more if the plant is in a large open globe. The key is to judge the drying time, the smaller the globe, the less circulation, the longer the plant will hold the moisture. If you over water the plant will die.

  5. REMEMBER what your plant looked like after soaking? If it has lost that happy healthy look, take it out and soak it for 30 mins to an hour, shake, allow to almost completely dry and replace in globe.

  6. Do not place your globes directly in front of a window where they get direct sun. Remember the glass will intensify the sunlight and the heat. Indirect light is best and some will even grow in low to moderate light.

  7. FAVORITE PLANTS FOR GLOBES: IONATHA, ANDREANA, FUNKIANNA, SM JUNCEA, and BUTZII for the Taller Globes.

    The following care instructions are more specific and come directly from one of our suppliers. I have added things over the last year as I have learned.

    LIGHT

    Bright filtered light is the general rule, and the higher the humidity of the air the higher light will be tolerated. Outdoors the silvery-leafed varieties can usually be grown in full sun, but in an unshaded greenhouse or close to unshaded  glass in a sunny room or conservatory the same plant will quickly burn because the air dries out like an oven.

    In a very sunny spot indoors they may need daily misting or weekly soaking depending on which method you prefer. See watering and misting below.

    ARTIFICIAL LIGHT

    Full spectrum artificial light (fluorescent) is best. Plant should be no further than 36" from the fluorescent tubes and can be as close as 6". A four-tube 48" fixture works well. Bulbs can be any full spectrum type Gro-Lux, Repta-Sun, Vita-Lite, etc. Light should be set with a timer, 12 hours per day.

    The following information about the different types of bulbs may be helpful:

    INCANDESCENT PLANT GROW LIGHTS Most incandescent plant lights are best used to highlight indoor plant groupings and have very little use as a true plant 'growing' light, even those that are labeled as a "grow light".

    Newer color corrected incandescent spot grow bulbs are suitable for adding supplemental light or highlighting to a single plant, such as an orchid or indoor bonsai tree.

    However, you should never place an incandescent bulb closer than 24 inches over your plants. Incandescents burn very hot and will burn plants when placed close enough for them to appreciably affect plant growth.

    Most incandescent bulbs have an average life span of 750 hours.

    SODIUM LAMP (HIGH-PRESSURE SODIUM LAMP) High-pressure sodium lamps operate by igniting sodium, mercury, and xenon gases within a sealed, ceramic arc tube. Sodium lamps emit light energy in the yellow/red/orange regions of the spectrum; the red spectrum stimulates flowering and fruit production. Many indoor gardeners switch to sodium lamps when it is time to induce flowering or fruiting of their plants.

    SON-AGRO A sodium bulb which, according to the manufacturer, Philips Lighting, produces 30% more blue light than standard sodium bulbs. The 430-watt SON AGRO also emits 6% more light than the standard 400-watt sodium lamp.

    METAL HALIDE (MH) LAMP A high-intensity discharge lamp in which the light is produced by arcing electricity through a mixture of metal halides. The light produced by metal halide lamps is in the white-blue spectrum, which encourages vegetative growth and "bushiness," while discouraging upward growth. This is the bulb to use in the first, vegetative phase of plant growth

    WATERING YOUR AIRPLANTS

    Thoroughly wet your Tillandsia 2-3 times per week; more often in a hot, dry environment; less often in a cool, humid one. In conditions of extreme drying, and consequent moisture loss, Tillandsia cannot get replacement water from their roots like a terrestrial plant, or draw on internal reserves like a succulent.

    The Water you use is important. NEVER USED DISTILLED WATER! Softened Water is a NO NO for the salt content. Filtered water, tap water that has sat long enough for the chlorine to dissipate, bottled water or RO are all fine. Pond water, aquarium, or rain water are all preferred but tap water is better than no water.

    Outdoors you may never need to water Tillandsias hanging in a tree if you live in a temperate climate with some humidity. Indoors, the hotter and drier the air, the more you need to water.

    Plants should be given enough light and air circulation to dry in no longer than 4 hours after watering. Wind can be a detriment as the plant dries too quickly. Remember that inside with a window fan as well. If the plant dries within a very short period of time, it is not hydrating at all.

    Spray misting is insufficient as the sole means of watering but may be beneficial between regular waterings in dry climates to increase the humidity.

    If the plant is in a shell, be sure to empty the water out. Tillandsias will not survive in standing water.

    Under-watering is evidenced by an exaggerating of the natural concave curve of each leaf.

    New Information: After wetting your plants thoroughly, turn them upside down and gently shake them. I have found that the water that collects near the base is detrimental if left to long. I have lost many stricta that way.

    One last thing about watering your air plant. It is much better to water in the morning than at night. Air plants absorb the carbon monoide from the air at night instead of the day time. If the plant is wet, it does not breath therefore unless it can dry quickly at night, plan on morning baths.

    AIR CIRCULATION

    Following each watering, Tillandsias should be given enough light and air circulation to dry in 4 hours or less. Do not keep plants constantly wet or moist.
    Do not allow to dry to quickly though. 1-3 hours is optimum

    TEMPERATURE

    Optimum temperature range for Tillandsias is 50 - 90 degrees F.
    I have kept my plants outside during 40 degree F. weather but only for a night or two knowing it would be warm during the day. Tillandsia will die with frost.


    FERTILIZER

    Use Bromeliad fertilizer (17-8-22) twice a month. It is GREAT for blooming and reproduction! Other water-soluble fertilizers can be used at 1/4 strength (Rapid Grow, Miracle-Grow, etc.) if Bromeliad fertilizer is not available.
    Note Here: If you use pond water or aquarium water, Don't use fertilizer

    GROWTH CYCLE

    Bromeliad Tillandsia have a life cycle of one plant growing to maturity and blooming. Before, during or after blooming (depending on the species) your plant will start producing young (PUPS), most plants will produce between 2 - 8 pups. Each plant will flower once in its lifetime, remember that each pup is a plant and it will bloom. Flowers can last from several days to many months, depending on the species, and different species bloom at different times depending also on its care and environment. You can expect blooms from mid winter through mid summer depending on the plant.

    If you leave your plant to clump just remove the leaves of the mother plant as she starts to dry up, just pull the leaves out with a gentle sideways tug, if the leaf resists, its not dead yet, so just trim any dried areas instead. Once you've fully removed the mother plant, the gap that's left will quickly be filled in by the other plants growing & spreading.


    REMOVING AIR PLANT PUPS

    To remove the pups, they should be at least 1/3 to 1/2 the size of the mother plant. Hold both mother and pup at their bases and gently twist in a downward motion. If this does not happen easily, you may need to remove the pup by cutting downward as close to the mother as possible. Do not discard the mother plant yet, as long as she is still alive she will continue to produce more pups for you. Often taking several years after blooming before she finally dies.


    MOUNTING YOUR TILLANDSIA

    Tillandsias can be grown basically anywhere, on rocks, in a seashell or on coral, in ceramic or pottery, attached to wood (not pressure treated wood this is impregnated with copper, and copper will kill your plant). When considering what you are going to do with your plant don't forget that you have to be able to water it and it has to be placed somewhere that it will get sufficient light.

    Try not to put Tillandsias in containers that hold water, they need to dry out. If you do place your plant in something that holds water, empty out the excess after watering your plant. The same thing applies when mounting your plant. Do not surround your plant with Moss. It will hold too much water and will rot your plant.


    ATTACHING YOUR PLANT

    You can use glue, wire, fishing line, twisty ties, nails or staples. Nails and staples can only be used on plants with a woody stolon or with sufficient roots. DO NOT staple your plant on its fleshy parts as it will kill it. Try to use a waterproof glue such as Liquid Nails or a Hot Glue gun, allowing the glue to cool for 5 seconds. Do not not use superglue or copper wire as these will kill your plant.


    CARING FOR YOUR NEW PLANTS AFTER SHIPPING

    When you receive our plants, please remove from the shipping package and soak for 30 minutes to 1 hour, submerge upside down. Shake gently to remove excess water, Place in bright light and allow to dry. Do not fertilize plants for 3 weeks following thier arrival but be sure to follow directions for Light and Water.


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